d&g gupole
d&g ny
d&G ny
The Clarke Chronicles
 

Dubai

November 5th-10th, 2008

This was the beginning of our 'Big One': five and a half months away from Gupole over the winter months in climates more sublime. The itinerary comprised lengthy stays in two places - Cape Town and Phuket using Dubai as a hub and a place to break up the journeys. As with our previous Phuket trip earlier this year, a side trip to Hong Kong was also thrown in to the plan.

After what seemed like weeks of preparation involving sorting out the house, garden and cars, booking flights and places to stay, convincing friends we were not abandoning them forever and deciding what to take and not to take for the five and a half months away, the 5 November dawned along with Franco to drive us to Arezzo station to catch the 7.14 Eurostar to Rome. Owing to the quirks of the Italian rail system, we had no choice but get this train. It got us to the airport far too early - 9.30 for a 14.30 flight, but when you're travelling, the day is gone anyway and sitting a couple of extra hours at an airport is neither here nor there.

We were a bit concerned about the luggage - 47 kilos in the hold and rather too much hand luggage, weight-wise. The latter was mainly camera stuff and two laptops packed into two back-packs that we carried as jauntily as we could so they looked as light as a feather. Possibly because we'd checked in on line and therefore had only to go to the baggage drop desk, the lady didn't bat an eyelid. She was far more concerned that my credit card didn't register - a system fault for which she was full of apologies. Certainly in the regular check-in queue next to us, two nuns were sent off to get divine intervention regarding the amount of luggage they had. I guess the cloth doesn't cut any ice with Emirates unless it's a dishdashah.

Dubai. Emirates lived up to their excellent reputation - service and food great, a huge choice of movies on the on-demand entertainment system and comfort not bad given we were flying cattle class. The flight disembarked into the new terminal 3 at Dubai. This has only just opened and is vast and very efficient. Unlike the older terminal where the queues for immigration can be dreadful, there was no queue at all at T3. The luggage emerged pretty fast too. So within about 20 minutes of landing, we were in a taxi on the way to Daniel's apartment in the Dubai Marina where we arrived to a bottle of bubbly at around 00.45.

It had been almost two years since we'd last been in Dubai - Christmas 2006 - and although it was night time, it was clear that they are still pouring the concrete. More roads, more high-rise, more malls. The place is incredible.

Daytime traffic in Dubai is ghastly, especially downtown. A new overground metro system is presently under construction and scheduled to finish in mid-2010. It will go from the airport and should make a big difference to cross-town travelling time as long as your destination is near a station - Dubai is not a place to walk far, particularly in the summer and especially if you're carrying luggage.

I suppose you either like big cities or you don't. For us, having spent 28 years in Hong Kong, cities do have an appeal, and if you can get above them either on nearby hills, which you can't in Dubai, or on the higher floors of high-rise buildings, then they can look pretty dazzling, especially at night. Check out the view from Daniel's apartment.

dan's apt view1 night dubai2a dan's apt view3 night
dan's apt view 1 day dan's apt view 2 day dan's apt view 3 day
dubei view 1 dubei view 2

Seen from the Burj Al Arab, the still-under-construction Burj Dubai is already the world's tallest building - 707m as of Sept 08. It dominates the downtown area making surrounding 50-storey buildings seem quite small.

View down the coast from the Burj Al Arab showing the cluster of high-rise at the Dubai Marina and the Jumierah Palm, still growing.

Burj Al Arab. Daniel knows some interesting people, one of whom, David Robinson, is a marine biologist working with the fish and aquariums of the Burj Al Arab hotel, the seven star - yes, seven - that dominates the skyline along the coast between the 'Palm' islands development and the even more exotic 'World' development - the latter still just a series of undeveloped islands of sand at present.

The Burj Al Arab (burj is 'tower' in Arabic) is a magnificently impressive building from the outside. It soars up over 300 metres and is designed to resemble a sail. Inside, it is perhaps as excessive as it is impressive, but it certainly leaves you standing there with your mouth open. If you stay there, you will develop a huge hole where your wallet used to be. All rooms are suites and the most modest of them costs around US$1000 per night. Interestingly, there are people who live there permanently.

burj external view burj int view1 burj int view2 burj lobby
burj pr dining burj spa
Private subterranean dining room, with fish tank wall
The ultimate infinity pool - in the spa 200 metres up!

David had kindly agreed to take us on a guided tour of the place, including a behind-the-scenes look at the workings of the three aquariums - two in the lobby by the escalators which also extend down into private dining rooms, and one huge one in the famous Al Mahara (The Oyster) restaurant. I got the impression that each of the 2500 or so fish is a personal friend and they are looked after with amazing care and attention. An innovative breeding programme ensures that stocks are maintained and their food, like that of the hotel guests, is hand-prepared from the finest ingredients. The marine biologists of the Burj Al Arab also take on injured turtles, David's speciality, that are found in the local waters. We saw several turtles whose shells had been damaged by boat props or from being trapped in nets, and these are carefully nursed back to health. Turtles it seems have fantastic powers of regeneration. Although they can't grow new shells, they re-grow just about everything else, which is one reason why they live so long.

While we were there, David noticed that a small female shark who had been laying egg cases had deposited two more that were snagged on the coral near where she was lying at the bottom of the main tank. This tank is the showpiece of the submarine restaurant and must leave the punters goggle-eyed - I wonder if they have fish on the menu. This female shark's eggs were a product of parthenogenesis, a form of asexual reproduction in which females produce eggs that develop without fertilization. This process is very rare among sharks and it is extremely rare for the young sharks, which are invariably female, to survive. Last year the aquarium had one that lived to three months but then died. As soon as he was aware of these new egg cases, David called one of his divers and the cases were retrieved, checked for viability and then kept separately to monitor their development.

main burj aa aquarium shark and egg sacs
diver and sacs nemos

Above left: The Al Mahara Restaurant

Above right: Yellow egg cases snagged on the coral above the shark.
Below left: Harvesting the egg cases
Below right: A shoal of new, young Nemos

Downtown. After all that excitement, we spent the rest of the day relaxing followed by a drinks and Thai curry party at Dan's apartment where we met lots of his friends and helped them consume a significant amount of booze. The next day was Friday, which is Dubai's Saturday, and was spent working off the previous night's excesses in the gym and the pool. Saturday night saw us sipping Dubai Slings on the terrace of the Dubai Raffles Hotel - delicious but a serious assault on the credit card - followed by dinner at a smart Indian restaurant, Ashas.

On our last day, Sunday, after spending the afternoon on a beach at the Jumeirah Palm development looking out to the spot nearby where the QE2 is soon to be moored and become yet another hotel, we watched the new bond movie in the luxury of the Gold Class cinema in the Mall of the Emirates - the one with the ski slope! The cinema has huge leather reclining seats into which you disappear so far that you wonder if you'll ever emerge from them again. The staff even deliver the popcorn and drinks to your seat - bit better than the old Ruislip Odeon!

Three days in this land of excess and we were off on an early flight to our next port of call: Cape Town.